Thursday, April 21, 2011

Teaching Baby Parrotlets

9 days ago we bought a pair of (sister) 5 week old hand fed Pacific Parrotlets from a breeder. We have them in one 18x24x16 cage. They are now both weaned and they appear very bonded to each other. We are now beginning finger training. One of the birds is taking to it pretty well while the other will have no part of it. Should we separate the two now and have them in individual cages? Would this make training easier? They are 6 weeks old now. Thank you!

Barry

Dear Barry:

Thank you for your email. I think you need to slow down a little bit with these babies. After all, they are truly just a little bit older than ‘infants’. Most people do not sell unweaned birds and your birds need time to adjust and recoup from the stress of a) being sold before they are weaned b) being in a new household and c) new food, new cage, new people, new toys, new everything. The amount of stress these youngsters are going through is tremendous and they are truly just baby babies. Trying to teach these guys anything at this stage, especially something like stepping up is something you have do very slowly and over time. To put this in perspective, its like trying to teach a toddler to ride a bike. While you can certainly handle the birds and start working on doing ladders and step ups, I wouldn’t start formerly trying to train these guys until they are least 8 weeks old and even then its going to take a lot of time, patience and work on your part. I don’t even sell my birds until they are at least 7 weeks of age so you can see these birds are just too young for what you expect.

To get back to your question, the cage you describe is not big enough for two parrotlets. I don’t recommend anything smaller than 18” x 18” x18” for a single bird. Certainly this cage is too small for two and eventually you are going to start having issues with territorialism and aggression. “Share’ is generally not a word in most parrotlet’s vocabulary and as they mature, one will probably become dominant and controlling over the other. The dominant bird will often not allow the other to perch, eat, play or sleep so you will need to watch these birds as they mature to make sure there isn’t going to be problems. Parrotlets can be very combative and aggressive and it is how Nature designed them to survive in very harsh conditions. In the wild, they nest up to 300 yards away from other parrotlets and they will defend their nest (or in this case, cage) almost to the death from other animals including predators that eat them. If they were my birds, I would simply buy another cage of the appropriate size and put the other bird in that. They can still chirp and chatter to one another and interact together on neutral territory under supervision but I wouldn’t spend a lot of money on a bigger cage with the hopes they can live together happily ever after.

I hope this helps and best of luck with your new parrotlets!

Sincerely yours,

Sandee L. Molenda, C.A.S.
Secretary, International Parrotlet Society

Price of Parrotlets

Hello!

I have three healthy(Parrotlet) babies and this a first time endeavor. I have no idea of how much to charge for my Parrotlet’s. Is there a fee that seems to be standard?This is really bothering me so a response would be very much appreciated!

Thank you,

Susan

Dear Susan:

Thank you for your email. Congratulations on your breeding of your parrotlets. I am assuming these are Pacific parrotlets? There is no standard rate for the sale of birds – after all this is a free country and you can charge whatever you wish for your birds. Price generally is based upon the species, if the bird is a mutation, if it was hand-raised and is it socialized and tamed. These birds usually command a higher price than a parent-raised bird that generally cannot be handled and is not really considered pet quality. Also, if you offer a health guarantee or other ‘perks’ this would also be included in the price. Also, your location makes a big difference on the price. Places like FL that have dozens of breeders generally sell their birds for less, because of the competition, than places like Nevada that don’t. A city like Manhattan also commands a higher price for birds than say Montgomery, AL. All that being considered, the market rate for most Pacific parrotlets is between $50 and $150 each when purchased from a breeder.

Hope this helps and best of luck with your bird!

Sincerely yours,

Sandee L. Molenda, C.A.S.
Secretary, International Parrotlet Society

Changes in Behavior

Hello!

I have a parrotlet that's nearing a year in age. He was purchased from a breeder, and he's generally a well-behaved bird (he doesn't bite, but he has chewed a few of his chest feathers. It started about when we moved into our new apartment a month ago.) Our only real continuing issue is that he wants to fly away whenever he's on your shoulder, or you go to pick him up if he's perched on something. Sometimes saying "step up" first will keep him from doing it, but most of the time it doesn't. It makes it hard to keep him out for long periods, because he wants to flutter over to the cat bed, or under the computer desk, etc. He will always step up when you go to get him, he doesn't bite, and he likes to cuddle some, but I was wondering how to go about teaching him to not do this. I don't want him to get hurt, and I think he'll enjoy us, and we'll enjoy him more, if half our time together out of the cage isn't spent hunting him down as he cruises across the floor or goes to harass the cats. He absolutely loves for me to talk to him through his cage bars, will fluff and coo and mimic noises I make, but once out of the cage, he seems to care more about seeing how far he can flutter and who he can bother.

-Elodie

Dear Elodie:

Thank you for your email. You don’t mention how long you’ve had the bird and that can make a difference in my opinion about his behavior. I will say that moving is stressful for birds and very often does result in behavioral issues including feather destructive behaviors, aggression or handling. I would make sure the bird’s wings have not grown out and are still clipped. If he has recently molted, the feathers will grow back and he could simply be using his nature-given talents of being able to fly. If the wings are still sufficient clipped, then this is simply a matter of continued training. There are no magic words or special tricks, just consistency, patience and performance on your part. Each and every time the bird flies away, you will need to get him and put him back on your finger or perching area. This isn’t about whether or not he likes you or is a good bird, he is simply doing what Mother Nature designed him to do, fly. It’s a very strong instinct and it takes patience, training, timing and consistency in order to stop him. Again, I would check those wings and just keep working with him.

Best of luck!

Sincerely yours,

Sandee L. Molenda, C.A.S.
The Parrotlet Ranch, Owner, www.parrotletranch.com
Join the International Parrotlet Society, – the World’s Largest and Oldest Parrotlet Organization www.internationalparrotletsociety.org
A Chattering Bird Builds No Nest.
Camaroonian Phrase

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Molting Parrotlet With Fatty Liver Syndrome

Hi Sandee,
It's been a while since we last communicated so I wanted to give you an update. I had an appointment with Dr. M and he was very helpful. He is convinced my bird has fatty liver disease and he sent me some instructions and supplements for her. She is doing pretty well but she seems to be itchy and picking in certain areas (oil gland area, left cere, and upper hinge/shoulder of her wings. There are small patches of feathers missing) Also the rest of her plumage is very dull and scruffy. She gets sleepy easily but she eats and plays and interacts with me normally which is good. So my question for you today is... what season do parrotlets typically go through their molt? I'm hoping that when she molts, maybe she'll get some healthy new feathers in because of her new diet & vitamins, so I am anxiously waiting to see pin feathers come up... But wondering if maybe they don't molt when their little immune systems are compromised.
Whenever you get a chance, please let me know what you think.

Thank you so very much,
Betsy

Dear Betsy:

Molts can be influenced by many factors and it really doesn’t have anything to do with species. Age, hormones, lighting, heat, daylight hours and the seasons can trigger molts. Basically, most parrotlets go through their first molt at 4-6 months of age and then they usually molt twice a year after that. Generally, as the days get longer or shorter (or if you artificially add or subtract daylight hours) can cause a bird to molt. So can higher temperatures, including artificial heat.

I have articles in my books on how to deal with molting parrotlets, however, in your case, because your bird’s health situation, I would not change the diet as is recommended to provide more protein and fat. Both of those things are bad for birds with liver issues. I would discuss this issue with your vet. After all, missing or unhealthy feathering may be unsightly but it won’t adversely affect your bird’s health. Controlling fatty liver and not exacerbating the problem is much more important than worrying about the molt. In fact, the fatty liver may be the reason the bird is having such a hard time with molting. But again, you need to discuss it with your vet.

Sincerely yours,

Sandee L. Molenda, C.A.S.
The Parrotlet Ranch, Owner, www.parrotletranch.com
Join the International Parrotlet Society, – the World’s Largest and Oldest Parrotlet Organization www.internationalparrotletsociety.org
A Chattering Bird Builds No Nest.
Camaroonian Phrase

College Student Wants a Parrotlet

Lauren found a local Parrotlet being "re-homed", but it has not been hand-fed. We encouraged her to wait (she has finals coming up) - we have done a lot of research, and impressed with your advice. I see by your speaking schedule that you don't have anything out east on tap?

We read the information on shipping to Virginia and are not sure we completely understand the procedures for us with one bird and your health certificate. We will contact the Virginia office, but thought we would mention it to see if you had any specific advice (and with reference to your speaking schedule)
.
Any thoughts are appreciated, so we can get on you wait list. She is interested in a traditional Pacific Green. We really like this cage, but it may be too small - can you advise?

On behalf of Lauren,

Leroy

Dear Leroy:

Thank you for your email.

I always have a waiting list for birds and right now is no exception. Generally, my waiting list is 3-4 months long. I don’t take deposits and work on a first-come, first-served basis. All of my birds come with a written health guarantee, hatch date, food, millet spray, a copy of my book “The Parrotlet Handbook”, receipt and information on the International Parrotlet Society.

As for shipping, I have a lot of information on my website since I give presentations all over the world on how to ship birds. I also worked with TSA to establish protocols for people who travel with pet birds. Generally, I don’t bring birds with me when I am speaking to a bird club and it is irrelevant anyway because I can ship they pretty much anytime so long as weather and labor issues allow. I have detailed information available on my website and in my books. However, the basic procedure is I coordinate with you on a schedule to ship the bird. I usually use Continental or Delta and have never had problem. I ship Pet First or ‘counter to counter’ where the birds are hand-carried onto the plane and hand-carried off. They are never left on the tarmac or in a warehouse. When they reach their destination, you pick them up at either air cargo or the terminal (you will need to check with your airport since they all do that differently). I charge a $50 refundable deposit on the cage and carrier and the airlines charge anywhere from $75 to $100..

All states require a health certificate for birds that enter. They are issued by a licensed veterinarian not me. The bird is given a visual examination and the vet issues the health certificate no later than 30 days prior to the bird’s shipment.

As for the cage, yes, that is much too small. Round cages are usually not good choices since they do not have as much room as square cages. I also recommend a cage that is longer or wider than it is tall so you can place lots of perches and toys in it. Parrotlets are very high energy birds and they require a lot of room as well as toys, perches and other enrichment items in which to play and exercise. I don’t recommend a cage smaller than 18” x 18” and bigger is certainly better.

Hope this answers your questions and let me know if you are interesting in having your name placed on my reservation list.

Sincerely yours,

Sandee L. Molenda, C.A.S.
The Parrotlet Ranch, Owner, www.parrotletranch.com
Join the International Parrotlet Society, – the World’s Largest and Oldest Parrotlet Organization www.internationalparrotletsociety.org
A Chattering Bird Builds No Nest.
Camaroonian Phrase

Crossing State Borders With a Parrot

am driving from Portland Oregon to Davis, California for eye surgery for my red lored Amazon parrot. Am i required to have a health certificate to cross the border into California or back into Oregon ? Thanks, Pam Winge

Dear Pam:

All 50 states require a bird to have a health certificate when crossing the border. However, whether or not it is enforced is another matter. Not sure if Davis will require it, you should check with them. If you are flying with the bird, the airline might require it and you should check with them. I know that most states will allow a health certificate to be valid for 30 days after its issuance so if it is required, you can have one certificate that would cover both states.

Hope this helps,

Sincerely,

Sandee L. Molenda, C.A.S.
Secretary, International Parrotlet Society

Thursday, April 7, 2011

Parrotlets Bonding With Other Birds in the Room

Hello, I have a young 3 month old parrotlet and I wondered if you
could answer a question. We also have two parakeets in one cage and
our parrotlet in another within a few feet of each other so they can
all keep each other company. My husband wants to move the parakeets
to another room as he doesn't want "Taz" our parrotlet to bond with
the parakeets. Will this happen if they are not in the same cage? We
felt he was a bit nippy (in a gentle way) when the birds were around.
We could have imagined this though, or he was having an "off" day. I
just worry that he will be lonely if there is no one to watch. I have
ordered your book from Amazon. Thanks Sandee

Dear Jean:

Thank you for your email. I'm not surprised your parrotlet was more nippy with the other birds around - parrotlets are aggressive and territorial with other birds so I'm sure you aren't imagining anything, in fact, I am sure you are quite correct. Just have a misinterpretation of the situation. So, the answer to your question, is no, your parrotlet is not bonding with the parakeets. In fact, he is probably saying 'Stay away! Stay awake! This is my cage, my territory, my place...." He is going into 'battle mode'. You can keep him in the same room but I'd move them across the room from one another. That way everyone can still hear and interact with one another but not be so close so as to trigger that territorial instinct.

Hope this helps and I hope you enjoy the book.

Sincerely yours,

Sandee L. Molenda, C.A.S.
The Parrotlet Ranch, Owner, www.parrotletranch.com

Join the International Parrotlet Society, – the World’s Largest and Oldest Parrotlet Organization www.internationalparrotletsociety.org

A Chattering Bird Builds No Nest.
Camaroonian Phrase

Aggressive Baby Parrotlet

Hi, Sandee. HELP! I have a beautiful 15 week old female Pacific Blue parrotlet that I am totally in love with! We got her from a reputable breeder where she was hand fed, and we brought her home at 11 weeks. We also have a five month old male parakeet who adores her. He is Elvis, her name is Tiffany. We keep them in separate cages at night and for parts of the day when no one is available to supervise. There are times during the day when they are free to fly around my kitchen/den area; the parrotlet will venture out first and the parakeet will then call her and finally go to her when she ignores him! They do have plenty of supervised play time together as well as apart; they will groom each other, take naps close together, and infrequently get into a squabble which is short-lived. They visit each other's cages and eat each other's food as the mood strikes them. Usually those activities are cooperative, but she is sometimes territorial and " bossy " with him, in either cage. She has plenty of chewy toys and a varied diet including fruits/veggies/grains, and a seed/pellet mix. We aim for twelve hours of darkness at night but it usually ends up being less than that because we keep them in our family room.

Tiffany seems very attached to me as I am a stay-at-home mom and handle her the most. She will fly to the room I am in and then walk on the floor to me, or fly to my shoulder/head. She knows the step-up command and SEEMED to know " no " until very recently.

Up until the last few days, she was nippy at times but not overly so and responded to a puff of air in the face and a stern "no bite". However, she has now started biting our hands/fingers very hard ( even me), frequently, and repeatedly, often 5-6 times in a row despite the negative responses we give her. There is nothing new or different that I can pinpoint which caused this change. I praise her EFFUSIVELY when she doesn't bite and always speak to her very gently and lovingly. She also is INSANELY curious and will try to knaw on collar buttons or jewelry. She reminds me of my teething infants!

We have tried "time- outs" but don't have a separate cage for this, we just put her in her own big cage. Tonight I used a spray bottle 3-4 times to spray her when she bit me, with the result that she flew away from me. I don't want to de-socialize her as she is a very friendly and vivacious little soul, but neither do I want her to continue trying dig holes in my flesh!! Are we wrong to allow the two birds to socialize together, often for an hour or two? Is that somehow causing her escalation in biting ? The parakeet is not as social as she is but doesn't nip either. How do I manage this behavior- handle her more or less, cage her more or less, etc.? I would really appreciate any direction you can give me. I really love this little gal but I don't want beakmarks all over my hands!

Thank you.

Julie

Dear Julie:

Thank you for your email. I am assuming since the bird is flying all over the place, her wings are not clipped. You need to clip them. Letting a baby parrotlet have free-reign over the house with no means of control would be like letting a toddler get behind the wheel of your car. The bird's wings need to be clipped and training needs to start. Parrotlets are very smart and this bird is simply doing what comes naturally - she has the ability to fly and therefore you have no control over her. At this point, all she is learning is that a) her territory consists of the entire house (causes escalating aggression in parrotlets and b) she can do whatever she wants since she can fly and you cannot. She is learning to be aggressive, territorial and bite harder and harder until the people back off and she can do whatever she wants. And just like a spoiled toddler, she will not behave in an acceptable manner - her behavior will continue to escalate.

You need to get her wings clipped and keep them that way and then start with formal training sessions of stepping up, 'no', no bite and all the other 'control' commands she needs to learn in order to be a happy, healthy member of your family.

Hope this helps!

Sincerely yours,

Sandee L. Molenda, C.A.S.
The Parrotlet Ranch, Owner, www.parrotletranch.com

Join the International Parrotlet Society, – the World’s Largest and Oldest Parrotlet Organization www.internationalparrotletsociety.org

A Chattering Bird Builds No Nest.
Camaroonian Phrase

Two Cages for A Pet Parrotlet

Sandee-

I am planning to bring a parrotlet home in the next year and am learning as much as I can.

I have a question – I am trying to decide the best place for the cage. I was going to put it in the family room, where the family mostly spends time, so he would always be ‘part of things.’ But now I’m rethinking this, because my husband and kids tend to be night owls, and they hang out in the family room late at night watching TV and generally making noise. I know parrotlets need to be on a 12 hour light/ 12 hour dark schedule. Would it work to have two cages, one in family room for daytime, and another upstairs for sleeping? Or are parrotlets too territorial about their cages for this to work? At least there would be one member of the family I could put to bed at a decent hour 

Kathleen

Dear Kathleen:

Thank you for your email. I truly LOLed when I saw your last sentence. At least with the birds we have somewhat more control over their behavior.

You have great instincts about birds Kathleen. I do recommend that pet parrotlets be kept in a quiet place in a busy room that has a lot of family activities. However, there is also the problem of keeping them awake too many hours because of the reason you mention…people staying up late and/or getting up early. Therefore, I do recommend that you have two cages. A daytime cage that is roomy, filled with toys and the bird can enjoy being part of the family. But you can also have a smaller ‘sleeping’ cage that the parrotlet can go to sleep in when its ‘night, night’ time. This way everyone will be happy – the family can stay up as late as they want (lucky you) and the bird can still get the much need beauty sleep of 12 hours a night.

I hope this helps and good luck with the family, I mean the bird…..:)

Sincerely yours,

Sandee L. Molenda, C.A.S.
The Parrotlet Ranch, Owner, www.parrotletranch.com
Join the International Parrotlet Society, – the World’s Largest and Oldest Parrotlet Organization www.internationalparrotletsociety.org
A Chattering Bird Builds No Nest.
Camaroonian Phrase